Where to eat

At the simple Escalinada at 22, rue Pairolière, (33-4) 93.62.11.71, fax (33-4) 92.11.09.26, tiny tables spill down its steps and onto a tiny square. The menu changes with the season, but delivers Nice's favorites, including fresh and tender octopus salad, stuffed sardines and a variety of beignets, including some containing zucchini flowers. Closed Nov. 15 to Dec. 15. Dinner for two is about $75, including a bottle of local wine; no credit cards.